Monday, May 11, 2009

Machu Picchu










Day 1 - Bicicletas




I joined a trek called Inka Jungle Trail by Lorenzo Cahuanas, a 4 day 3 night deal which is a (much cheaper) alternative to the regular Inka Trail. Day 1 we biked. We were brought to the top of a mountain, put on some day-glo vests (to see each other and for cars to see us) and told to start. It was a blast! We winded our way down for ours and ours, mostly on paved, smooth road. After a lunch break we were on a bumpy dirt road that didn't feel so great, but we made it to the village of Santa María where we spent the night in a hostel... I even got to shower.




Day 2 - Trekking




Ah, the dreaded uphill trekking. First of all, our guide, the wonderful José Luis with a giant brace-face smile, gave us t-shirts to wear for Day 2. So, cool, free t-shirts. Only, there was one size for girls - extra small. The smallest of girls had trouble pulling it on. I had to stretch and pull and wear a tank top underneath to make it work. Not so great for the self esteem. ;) We ate breakfast at the hostel, then ventured out into the city, wearing our backpacks and plenty of insect repellent. We saw the abandoned village of Santa María, the original place being in the way of the rising Urubamba River and had flooded 2 years ago. We proceeded up up uphill, I was sweating profusely and huffing and puffing. The views of the valley were spectacular, and we even walked on some original Inka Trail. We continued on until we made it to the hot springs just below Santa Teresa. We enjoyed several hours of hot pools, and felt SO much cleaner afterward. Opting for a colectivo taxi-van ride to the actual village where our hostel was, we managed to even stay clean to supper time. I enjoyed delicious polla a la plancha, grilled chicken with rice and homemade french fries. Exhausted, I fell asleep shortly after dinner time in our nice little hostel.



Day 3 - Walking



Our group chose 'Option 2' of taking a taxi to the Hydroelectric plant and then walking along the railroad tracks to Aguas Calientes, the little village below Machu Picchu. This would give us time to climb the mountain Putukusi, which gives a direct view of Machu Picchu. As it would turn out, only 3 other girls and myself opted for the mountain after we had lunch in Machu Picchu. Go figure. So, with our cheerful guide, we began walking to a nearby mountain (the one next to Putukusi), and walking up steps, then climbing giant ladders (um, I'm talking 110 rungs on ONE ladder alone, more than a foot between rungs...). I was, again, huffing and puffing, but going at the rate of a snail, aka Amanda pace, I managed to get to the top, José Luis patiently waiting with the last person again (me). The view was great, and I ask myself why the heck I do stuff like that, I think for the thrill of it. No mountains in Minnesota, you know. We went down in the dark, but no one fell once, and went straight to bed in order to wake up at 3.30 am to start the trek up the stairs to Machu Picchu (no wimps in our group, as in, no taking the bus).

Day 4 - Machu Picchu

I have learned about Machu Picchu since I was in Girl Scouts, since Mr. Helgren told us random stories in 5th grade math class, since the history of the mysterious Inka (who had no written language, only oral history exists) has captured my attention. I was thrilled to be going there. I started walking at 3.45 with a girl and her mother to get to the top in plenty of time to sign up for the trek up Waynapicchu (the tall mountain in the background of every postcard picture). It was a lot of flippin' steps, I tell you what. I took breaks, then realized if I go at my snail pace my heart doesn´t beat as much and I can just keep going. So, after, 50 minutes of trekking up and at least 10 people passing me (who probably started 20 minutes after me), I made it to the entrance. We even got to stamp our passports with a Machu Picchu stamp, how great is that. Anyway, we got in and saw the misty view of Waynapicchu and the intact ruins of the city and it was just like they show on television or books. We had a tour of Machu Picchu, it appears the Inka probably left due to lack of food for the ever-growing population. Some houses have perfect stone work (for people higher-up) where stones fit perfectly, others (the workers) are more or less, but still beautiful. I did climb Waynapicchu, it was insane and steep. The view was great, I must admit. I lunched up there. After coming back down, I slowly made my way to the guard shack, where the 'post card' view is of the city. I sat there and admired the site for a long time, too. Eventually I made my way down the stairs back to Aguas Calientes where I took a train

(the only option, besides trekking, to leave the area) to Ollyanta. Beautiful day. Words cannot describe.

Monday, May 4, 2009

Lake Titicaca


I made my way to Puno where I found a tour to 3 different islands on Lake Titicaca, South America´s largest lake and the world´s highest lake (3800m). First we visited the floating islands of the Uros people, they literally made their own islands out of reeds and muck, and continue to place reeds on the top since it rots from the bottom. Why, you ask? Years ago they wanted to escape the life and strife of the mainland. Next we went to Isla Amantaní, where we lodged with families for the night who made us traditional meals (containing lots of potatoes) in their non-electric kitchens. The outhouses had real toilets, but you had to bring a bucket of water to swish everything down. Later that same day we climbed 500m to the Pachatata ruins, totally worth the view of the sunset. That night, the host mother of each traveller dressed him/her in traditional garb, men = panchos and decorative hats, girls = colorful skirts, white blouses with embroidery, wide belts tucked right underneath chest, and a black scarf with embroidery. We then went to a small communal room where a band of 12-14 year olds played traditional music on pan pipes, recorders and a ukelele. We danced their traditional dances, which consisted of holding hands and swinging arms back and forth and swishing skirts back and forth. Very easy. After a good night´s sleep, we had breakfast and jumped on boat to the final island, Taquile, also very beautiful on the deep blue waters of Titicaca. The name, if I heard my guide correctly, actually means Grey Puma. I didn´t know Perú has pumas. Hmmm.

Friday, May 1, 2009

Último día de la escuela



Today was my last day at the school, we played games and decorated pre-bought cupcakes with sprinkles and other candies. I was sad to leave them, but that´s the way it goes around here; high turnover means volunteers come and go, over and over. I did give Paloma´s mother a framed pic of her and all three of her girls. I received numerous besitos (kisses on the cheek) from the kids as I explained I wouldn´t be back next week. Four other long-term volunteers are also leaving this weekend, so props to all the newbies!
I also said goodbye to the wonderful church I´ve been attending, Bola de Nieve (boladeneve.com). It´s a church targeted at youth, but a number of adults make up the congregation, too. They were all very welcoming to me from day one, and I wish them the best as they continue sharing Christ with their neighbors in Arequipa. They gave me a pot holder as a goodbye present. Kind of quirky, but I´m sure I´ll use it plenty. =) Major lesson learned: every week is Holy Week (since Semana Santa only comes once a year, before Easter, they want to encourage people to live each week as a holy week). And I adored the pastor, super friendly and could play the guitar and sing. Doesn´t get much better than that.
Finally, went out to eat at Crepísimo tonight with all the volunteers and our administration leader, Brenda, and the cute Spanish teacher, Adolfo. Plenty of tasty crepes, I had one with strawberry ice cream. Then I beat Adolfo twice at ´damas,´aka checkers. Now off to Lake Titicaca!