La Escuela, part 2

The school is going well. The older kids have been translating pen-pal letters from students in England and are working on replies. I tease Alex that he has a girlfriend because his 8 year old pen-pal drew a cute little picture of herself.
We had music day for fun day, and the kids loved the recorders, although only a handful of older boys knew how to play. Mainly they played ´My heart will go on´from Titanic, which is okay, since it wasn´t just scratchy noises.

The two loves of my life, Paloma and Sara, are sisters about 3 and 2 years of age. Paloma is crazy, and throughout my short time here Sara has become more and more like Paloma. Paloma likes to stick her tongue out and make weird noises, then run away from you. Sara generally just likes to be held. Both like to ´fly,´when a Teacher holds them in her arms like an airplane. Both girls are beginning to speak more and more. I suspected Paloma to be a little ´special,´but she´ll probably grow out of it. At the end of the day their mother, holding their baby sister Lucera in a traditional giant scarf, picks them up and brings the two cyclones of fun home. I think their mom greatly appreciates some time in peace each day.

Playa Mejía

Went to the beach today, who knew the Pacific Ocean is only 2 hours away. I put on plenty of sunscreen and jumped in the very cold, although not as cold as Lake Superior, water 3 or 4 times to cool myself down from the heat of the beach. The place was practically deserted because it´s technically winter and there´s a mist around the ocean, but we enjoyed the short get-away and laid back vibe.
On the way back our bus stopped for over a half hour on account of an accident in front of us. There was a bus, from the same bus company as ours, that apparently crashed into another vehicle... From my window I only saw the damaged bus, crushed only on the driver´s side/corner. There was an ambulance, and I heard someone say ¨esta viva¨ aka ¨alive¨ but I have no clue what other vehicle could have caused so much damage to a bus. It looked only like a car, and I thought buses were invincible in the loco traffic of Perú. On the brighter side, I stopped counting after the 20th man got off the bus to pee only 3 yards away on the side of the road. Only 2 women, both of which had to walk much farther away out of the glares of headlights from cars behind the stopped bus, risked nature´s call.

English Lesson

With my roommate Felicity I discussed some vocabulary differences between our two countries:

Food
a cuppa - cup of tea
brew - cup of tea
chips - french fries
sarnie - sandwich
butty - sandwich
fry-up - typical English breakfast
lollies - hard candy
pudding - dessert
pub - bar, but more homey

Cockney ... invented by gangsters who used rhyme to fool the authorities
Up the apples and pears - up stairs
Ruby marie - curry
Whistle and flute - suit
You won´t adam and eve it - you won´t believe it
Get a butcher´s hook - get a look

Random
I´m a bit parky - I´m cold
away with the fairies - on cloud nine
dodgy - sketchy
skanky - dirty
trousers - pants
scalawag - naughty

australian lingo
Pass the hairy horse - tomato sauce
Doona - blanket
Cordial - koolaid
Shall we take the jadin leskie - esky, which is ice box ... this saying is hillbilly-ish, because of the missing lad jadin leskie from a hillbilly area known for having ice boxes, eskies, full of beer. case never solved.

Colca Canyon

Day 1: Flight of the Condors

A group of us, my roommate Felicity from England, two friends across the hall, Vanessa and Maricia from North Carolina, and the new guy Michael from England and myself went to the Colca Canyon this weekend. We took an uncomfortable and freezing cold 1am bus to Cruz del Condor, about 4-ish hours away on the edge of the canyon where you watch condors enjoy the drafts of wind and soar with their giant wings. We all bought stretch gloves with llama designs to look good and beat the cold.

After this we hopped a bus to Cabanaconde and began our adventure down down down one of the deepest canyons in the world, using a map our fellow friend Emily from Australia made for us from her previous adventure. After hours and hours and hours of going down gravelly slidey rock zig zag paths, and pausing for much water and the occasional picnic, we made it to the bottom with sore calves and blisters on the toes (not me, I wore my Keen sandles). Only one casualty, I fell on my left leg and scraped and bruised it, but survived. Then we crossed a bridge over Rio Colca and climbed climbed to San Juan to a delightfully ghetto hostel, Casa de Rivelo. Wonderful food, only 10 soles (a little of 3 dollars) for supper and a bed.

Day 2: The Oasis

We started day 2 with a quick breakfast and some general directions from the lovely hostel owner. 'Sube y plano' = 'go up and then straight.' So, we headed off in a general direction and guessed which way to head when paths split. We did pretty well. I am TERRIBLE at climbing up in high altitudes, and probably in general. But we made it to the flat path and passed through a couple of small villages. Pretty pleasant. We went down again to spend the night in the Oasis, an area at the bottom with several hostels that all have natural pools. Oh what joy and motivation! And we made it as quick as possible (still took several hours) and found a quaintly ramshackle hostel named Eden close to the path up (for day 3) with a beautiful pool. I swam for at least 2 hours straight. At this hostel I met two friendly Israelis, travelling after their time in the service, and a delightful 'true' English gentleman named John, who provided great conversation. He's one of my favorite acquaintances from this trip. We had dinner by candlelight (no electricity) and I adored the thousands upon thousands of stars shining down.

Day 3: Mules.

I realized that uphill is not the way for me to go, so I rented a mule for 35 soles, as did the Israeli girl. My friends began hiking at 5am to beat the heat of the day, I started at 6.30 by mule. Mules are the children of horse and donkey, the only animal sturdy enough for the zig zag path up and down the mountain. It was very helpful on my 'trek' up. Although, they enjoy walking close to the edge of the path, so I had great but frightening views of the steep canyon. My group was at the top before me, and we enjoyed the view then returned to Cabanaconde where our bus failed to show up (don't worry, we didn't pay for tickets) and we missed a local one, so we had 2 extra ours to bum so we found a tranquil spot and just relaxed. We unfortunately didn't have time for Chivay and the hot springs, though, so I was bummed. We returned to Arequipa by an even worse bus (Andalucia) but saw beautiful terrain and llamas in between. Felicity also helped me with my British English vocab, to be posted later. We celebrated homecoming with showers and pizza.

Laundry Day

I have chosen to avoid laundromats, although the cost is only 3 soles/kg, and have instead spent 3 soles on detergent and handwash it. It´s more or less strenuous work to someone use to the convenience of a washing machine. I´ve found it´s best to wash every 3 days or so to avoid too much. First I add a small cup of detergent to water in a bucket, let it dissolve and then throw in the laundry and allow it to soak for over a half hour. Then I scrub it a lot and rinse it as best as I can. Finally, I get to put it up on a clothesline, either one outside the laundry area or on the roof. I opted for the roof today, a better view of the town as my clothes drip dry. Today was whites.

Terremoto

So early this morning I woke up randomly, probably too hot or something and was drifting toward sleep when my bed started shaking and the window started rattling... An earthquake! More or less. I guess a tremor, it lasted all of about five seconds, and wasn´t severe enough for me to get worried. I was considering moving away from the rattling window, but made no decision by the time the tremor stopped. Then all the dogs in the neighborhood howled for about 5 minutes afterward. I´m pleased to have now survived an earthquake. Although next time I want to stand up and see how it feels... In bed it felt like one of those cheesey hotel beds where you put a quarter in it to make it vibrate.

Monasterio de Santa Catalina

Several of us toured a convent in Arequipa the other day. It takes up an entire city block and is basically it´s own city within it´s citadel-type walls. We wondered around for at least two hours to see the tourist part of it. Nuns currently live in a renovated area, which isn´t on the tour, of course.

It was built in the 1500s-ish and the nuns that lived there came with a dowrie that decided how nice their room would be and how large their kitchen. Everything was brick and it felt cold in most rooms, but it was neat to walk down the streets within the convent and see original objects, like beds and trunks and, in one room, a giant chair with a whole in the bottom...for all your bathroom necessities.

My favorite was the laundry system, which was outside with water running down a long narrow slide-like rock, with holes on the side that had pipes leading to ginormous brick basins that had holes in the bottom. If you blocked the water coming down the slide by a certain hole, the water would get high enough to go down that hole, into the pipe and fill the basin if the basin. I played with it.

Once upon a time, the nuns in this convent were a bunch of partiers complete with slaves of their own, but along came a Dominican nun who banished all such goings-on.