Bonnie and I again opted for a night bus to Arequipa, where we hopped into a bus to Cusco and insisted the bus helper put in the dvd Indiana Jones that we bought. We were in need of some adventure.
We decided to 'do it ourselves' again, and more or less figured out how to get there and still save at least $20-30 by not doing a tour. (That doesn't sound like much, but in Peruvian dinero, it's a lot AND it's wicked expensive to get to Machu Picchu)
I met up with my old tour guide, Jose Luis, who is now working with the trains. He gave us some great advice for traveling/shopping in the Peru area and helped hook us up with a cheap hostel in Aguas Calientes and a guide. GRACIAS!!!
So here is how you avoid taking a tour:
1. Spend the night in Ollyantambo and buy train tickets in advance. Please note the latest train is also the cheapest (depart at 11pm and arrive at 1ish am)
2. Leave your stuff at the hostel, take a knapsack on the train and get as much sleep as possible.
3. Arrive in Aguas Calientes late at night, in the pouring rain, and allow a hostel tout to show you to a nearby (and cheap, gracias a Dios) hostel.
4. Sleep for 2 hours before getting up and outta there by 4 am in order to buy your Machu Picchu ticket and bus tickets to the site (up high in the mountains)
5. Find correct busline, discover ticket prices have increased for the entrance, and eventually find the guide you've been hooked up with.
6. Fight the mob and get in for a speedy tour, then enjoy the rest of the day roaming the ruins, even if it's raining, wait by the caretaker's hut until a break in the clouds for the post card pic (you may borrow a ché flag from whomever has one).
7. Return to Aguas Calientes and eat at the hostel's sister restaurant, where your backpacks are waiting for you (and nothing is missing)
8. Hop the train back to Ollyantotambo, where you can enjoy a (cheap) night's rest (until the hostel owner's grandsons knock on your door and play ding dong ditch the next morning...only to ask my how i slept once i got up to shower, and give me a kiss on the cheek. they are certainly cheeky little fellows...)
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